Butternut Squash


My earliest memory of butternut squash was when I was in grade school. My family comes from a small town in the southwest corner of Oklahoma called Hollis. I spent time there with my grandmother in the summers. 

Back then, no one had ever heard of an HOA, so it was no surprise that her next door neighbor had turned his backyard into a garden and chicken coop. In my big city eyes it was like a tiny farm with huge plants and noisy chickens. I remember watching the chickens and their antics. He would give us corn from his garden in the summers. It was the best. 

One summer, Mr. Briscoe grew a new variety of squash, the Butternut squash. He gave grandmother one and told her to cut it in half, remove the seeds and fill the cavity with butter, brown sugar and cinnamon. Then bake the halves, cut side up,  until it was tender.  I remember it as being wonderful. 

Memory is a funny thing and I wondered how realistic it was that my grandmother a good farm wife who was familiar with cooking anything that grew from the ground, had really never cooked a butternut squash. I did a little reading and sure enough the Butternut squash was developed as a cultivar in 1948. Since those were the days before TV cooking shows and internet searches, it isn’t beyond the realms of possibility that it was still a new thing in small town Oklahoma in the mid 60’s. 

Today the Butternut is available year-round and is used in everything you can think of. Since winter squash is also called pumpkin in many places, it frequently substitutes as pumpkin in savory and sweet dishes. Someone once told me that most canned pumpkin was in fact butternut squash. On the Libby website, they admit that the pumpkin in their cans include the Dickinson squash which is a close cousin to the butternut. 


Here is a picture of one of our favorite pumpkins in North Carolina. It looks very much like a squash, but tastes just like pumpkin. In fact it is called squash in many places. So maybe it’s true that canned pumpkin includes butternut squash.

I have grown to love the versatility of butternut squash. It adapts to sweet and savory applications. Last night I used it in a spicy dish from the Caribbean called Callaloo which used ginger, thyme and allspice. But it also works well with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves or even spicy curry.

I went to the farmer’s market today and bought a Butternut squash. My first plan for it is to cook half of it just the way my grandmother cooked hers. I will bake it with cinnamon, butter and brown sugar. Then I will scrape all the tender flesh out, mix it up and serve it as the (somewhat) starchy side dish for tonight’s supper. 


That leaves me with a second half of that squash and the half leftover from making the Callaloo. I think I will try Butternut Curry from one half and Gnocchi with Butternut Cream Sauce from the other. 

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